Season Fall storm season in much of the US: Sep–Nov. Build dams in the dry season and let the first storm do the inspection.

Build check dams in a swale

Timebox: half a day for a typical yard run. Output: a steep channel stepped into flat pools that water can't scour. The work is simple — the formula is the job. Spacing equals dam height divided by grade; skip the formula and you've built a speed bump in a river.

Checked 2026-09-10 · procedure re-verified against sources below

What you need

  • Riprap, 4–12 in, angular — amount from the bill below
  • Shovel, rake
  • Line level and string — the grade number drives the spacing
  • Stakes and spray paint for dam lines

Steps

  1. Measure the grade. Percent, along the run, in two legs if it changes slope.
  2. Set the spacing. spacing = dam height ÷ grade. With 1-ft dams: 4% grade → every 25 ft; 3% → every 33 ft. Mark each line across the channel.
  3. Key the dam. Cut a shallow trench across the channel floor and a few inches into each side slope. A dam set on the surface scours under in one season — see the object page for the failure list.
  4. Stack the stone. Biggest stones on the downstream face, smaller fill behind. Make the middle of the dam 2–3 inches lower than the ends: the spill point. Water goes over the middle; the ends stay anchored.
  5. Armor the toe. A pad of smaller stone where the falling water lands. The drop is where the energy is.
  6. Walk away and schedule the silt. Dams collect sediment by design; that's the maintenance bill. Empty behind each dam before the wet season, every year. If nobody in the household will do it, don't build dams — that sentence is on the check dam page and it belongs here too.

Materials bill, 40-ft run at 4% grade

ItemAmount
Dams (1 ft high, every 25 ft)2 (one every 25 ft)
Riprap per dam, 2-ft-wide channel≈ 0.5 cu yd
Total stone≈ 1 cu yd
Time3–4 h including keying

Yard-scale figures. Multiply by your run length; the formula does not change.

Where people stop

  • Dams too tall. Over about 1.5 ft in a yard channel, the dam becomes a wall and fails sideways. More dams, lower — not fewer, higher.
  • Spill at the edge. A dam with its low point against a side slope hands the water a head start on eroding the bank.
  • Wood without armor. Timber dams rot and undercut. If you use wood, the downstream stone pad is not optional.

Where to go next

Sources

  1. Minnesota Stormwater Manual, check damsstormwater.pca.state.mn.us
  2. USDA NRCSnrcs.usda.gov
  3. US EPA NPDES, erosion and sediment controlsepa.gov/npdes